As a North County surfer, I do my best to avoid Swami's as often as possible. Why? Because Swami's seems to be devolving constantly. It has become all about who can ride the bigger board to get more waves. It has gotten to the point that in order to catch a wave out there, you've got to be on a board so big that it cannot turn.
Our buddy Steamroller has now taken this concept to SUP. Good luck Steamroller, I hope that you're happy. Devolve peacefully.
8 comments:
The Chips doesn't worry about crowds. Anyone dropping in gets a headlock and with the way The Chips brings it to the lip all the kooks run away.
23 Chips
please tell me that's photoshop
Turning is sooooooo last century!
Swami's is fucking tiring to surf. And yes, there are locals who surf well, but there are even more who feel entitled because they're there all the time even though they pretty much suck.
And, you forgot to mention gloves. They help the goons get in earlier too.
last time I was out at swamis on my fish (no a real fish, not a 8 ft one) I had a pro longboarder with me and he would get behind people and block for me. Everyone needs one of those.
don't you mean "Swarmis"?
I surf Swamis all the time with no issues - you guys have bad karma?
thats one fuckin big board
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