A pictorial journey into the hilarity that is surfing in Southern California – with a focus on poor etiquette, bad photography, body contortions, overcrowding, and bad surfing.
Stop by daily to see if you've been caught doing your best stinkbug power-squat...and please, don't be afraid to be my muse!
Thursday, January 03, 2008
The Donkey Perspective
Thanks to the helmet cam, we get a look into one donkey's experience.
gay wooden veneer surftech - check longboard in shortboardable waves -check kooky paddle abilities - check paddling so close to the shoulder when others are riding - check lineup full of longboards in shortboardable surf - check
If you aren't a pimple-faced teenager who with a bad attitude on a professional-surfer-model, mass produced board under 5'10" who stands with a wide, stink bug stance, aggressively wiggling his ass in weak, sloppy surf in order to get up enough speed to shower some other guy with spray or do some sort of aerial maneuver, then you're a kook.
Joel Tudor is a donkey while every beginner and intermediate shortboarder is OK--reason, because one guy rides longboards (doesn't matter that he competently rides them at Pipeline and Puerto Escondido) and the others ride what is socially acceptable (doesn't matter if they suck or can't handle overhead surf). The most important thing in surfing is to be exactly like everyone else. That's why we should all ride professional model shortboards and should all try to surf exactly like the pros--even if we are older, bigger, or our surf conditions are different. Surfing has always been about fitting in.
I don't ride "professional model shortboards"....but I'm no donkey.
It's not about the gear, it's all about what is done with the wave, the approach to the lineup, and the etiquette and respect (or lack there of) shown to others in the lineup.
I'm the accused donkey, whatever that means, so here are some facts:
The sunny part of the video I wasn't riding a longboard. Only one shortboarder was making sections and that was because he was patient and he ripped.
All the guys I paddled near are my friends.
The longboard sessions it was maybe knee high with the occasional thigh high wave. Myself and a few friends were the only people out. Only a little guy would ride a shortboard in waves that small, at 200 lbs it would be ridiculous.
Most of the waves were small closeouts, it was very inconsistent and you had to be lucky or very patient to be in the right spot when the better waves came.
Wood veneers do suck, they ding as easy as a PU board and the glass over the veneer shatters.
The title of the video has the word Test in it for a reason. Helmet cams are a pain in the arse, I was testing the camera angle and making sure the cam could get bashed by the lip and not have any dropouts.
While I prefer to ride shortboards, a bone spur in my shoulder kept me off them and out of the water for almost 3 years. All boards have their place, and I've had the most fun when I pick the right board for the conditions. - Clay
I'm glad pimple-faced teenagers who with a bad attitude on a professional-surfer-model, mass produced board under 5'10" who stands with a wide, stink bug stance, aggressively wiggling his ass in weak, sloppy surf in order to get up enough speed to shower some other guy with spray or do some sort of aerial maneuvers are kooks!
22 comments:
hmmm, explain why this is a donkey?
is it becasue of the lack of turning before it starts breaking?
not quite sure why
It might be the repeated dunkings as soon as the guy within 5 feet of the lip.
gay wooden veneer surftech - check
longboard in shortboardable waves -check
kooky paddle abilities - check
paddling so close to the shoulder when others are riding - check
lineup full of longboards in shortboardable surf - check
what's wrong with Surftech?
missing the same section over and over and over and over
Could he be considered a donkey because he doesn't ride a high-performance short board? That's the ONLY way to surf, isn't it?
If you aren't a pimple-faced teenager who with a bad attitude on a professional-surfer-model, mass produced board under 5'10" who stands with a wide, stink bug stance, aggressively wiggling his ass in weak, sloppy surf in order to get up enough speed to shower some other guy with spray or do some sort of aerial maneuver, then you're a kook.
Joel Tudor is a donkey while every beginner and intermediate shortboarder is OK--reason, because one guy rides longboards (doesn't matter that he competently rides them at Pipeline and Puerto Escondido) and the others ride what is socially acceptable (doesn't matter if they suck or can't handle overhead surf). The most important thing in surfing is to be exactly like everyone else. That's why we should all ride professional model shortboards and should all try to surf exactly like the pros--even if we are older, bigger, or our surf conditions are different. Surfing has always been about fitting in.
I don't ride "professional model shortboards"....but I'm no donkey.
It's not about the gear, it's all about what is done with the wave, the approach to the lineup, and the etiquette and respect (or lack there of) shown to others in the lineup.
Is there anything more disrespectful to a wave than for a surfer to use it as a platform for so called "radical" skateboarding maneuvers?
LOL. Hi Bill!
I'm the accused donkey, whatever that means, so here are some facts:
The sunny part of the video I wasn't riding a longboard. Only one shortboarder was making sections and that was because he was patient and he ripped.
All the guys I paddled near are my friends.
The longboard sessions it was maybe knee high with the occasional thigh high wave. Myself and a few friends were the only people out. Only a little guy would ride a shortboard in waves that small, at 200 lbs it would be ridiculous.
Most of the waves were small closeouts, it was very inconsistent and you had to be lucky or very patient to be in the right spot when the better waves came.
Wood veneers do suck, they ding as easy as a PU board and the glass over the veneer shatters.
The title of the video has the word Test in it for a reason. Helmet cams are a pain in the arse, I was testing the camera angle and making sure the cam could get bashed by the lip and not have any dropouts.
While I prefer to ride shortboards, a bone spur in my shoulder kept me off them and out of the water for almost 3 years. All boards have their place, and I've had the most fun when I pick the right board for the conditions. - Clay
LMAO!
Feeling the need to justify a kooky video= donkey
LMAO!
"hmmm, explain why this is a donkey"?
If you have to ask the above question you are donkey! LMAO!
Glad I could make you laugh. Let me know if they make donkey shirts, I want to get one.
Hey wake - this blog is all in good fun. Don't take it so seriously!
-WYD
chill owt wake.
you made YDD head lines
be prowd ove that
I'm glad pimple-faced teenagers who with a bad attitude on a professional-surfer-model, mass produced board under 5'10" who stands with a wide, stink bug stance, aggressively wiggling his ass in weak, sloppy surf in order to get up enough speed to shower some other guy with spray or do some sort of aerial maneuvers are kooks!
Al...I'm a fan, but that is not your best work.
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Where's the love peeps??
Who care's how people look when surf!
Stink bug stance or not...they're out there surfing and having fun!!
Whenever we try advertising a 'we're cool, they're not' message, it only shows how insecure we actually are..
just surf!!
lose the hate...
its all about love...showing it, giving it, getting it, making it!! :)
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