A pictorial journey into the hilarity that is surfing in Southern California – with a focus on poor etiquette, bad photography, body contortions, overcrowding, and bad surfing.
Stop by daily to see if you've been caught doing your best stinkbug power-squat...and please, don't be afraid to be my muse!
Wednesday, August 20, 2008
A Reminder
This summer has been nothing but a string of injuries for me. Reader rick posted this on another board and reminded me of what I have to look forward to locally this winter. God, I love surfing Swarmies.
We called it 'big friday' for a while because it was too big to paddle out at San Onofre. so we went to Swami's where even at 10 go 12 you could paddle out in the channel. Not having surfed it much, it took a few minutes to line up a good one. about half way down the line it nailed me and i never saw it coming. washed the board around on the rocks but it survived, with it's double ten oz glass job. hauled it back up the cliff trail and went home. 1962
The Chips likes those days. Whoever has the biggest guns wins.
ReplyDelete23 Chips
Some great surfing in that video WYD...
ReplyDeleteLOL!
That looks like...fun?
ReplyDeleteI love the way the final lyric is "somethings going wrong here"
ReplyDeletewhy?
ReplyDeleteWYD - how could you miss this story? http://www.signonsandiego.com/news/northcounty/20080820-9999-1m20surf.html
ReplyDeleteI don't see how anyone could paddle out with even 1/2 that amount of people out.... :(
ReplyDeleteAbout 1:38 in...ouch.
ReplyDeleteWe called it 'big friday' for a while because it was too big to paddle out at San Onofre. so we went to Swami's where even at 10 go 12 you could paddle out in the channel. Not having surfed it much, it took a few minutes to line up a good one. about half way down the line it nailed me and i never saw it coming. washed the board around on the rocks but it survived, with it's double ten oz glass job. hauled it back up the cliff trail and went home. 1962
ReplyDeleteNice story, thanks.
ReplyDeletethe only explanation for paddling out in that mess is testosterone
ReplyDelete